Showing posts with label Cappadocia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cappadocia. Show all posts

Monday, August 3, 2015

Black as Hell, Strong as Death, Sweet as Love...

Throughout our travels around Istanbul and Cappadocia during our Turkey Trip, one common thing that accompanied me all through was Türk Kahvesi or Turkish coffee!
My initiation to kahvesi began onboard the Bosphorus cruise. The coffee appeared like tar, a brown-black sludge. But willing to experiment, I tasted it quite willingly.
Kahvesi was quite literally an assault on the senses on the first sip, but by the second sip, I fell in love with it completely, and absolutely. And by the third sip, I was ready to kill and maim for one more cup of kahvesi. That is the magic of this dark, bitter-sweet elixir.


Coffee initially came from the highlands of Ethiopia, where it was discovered quite by accident, from where it went across the Red Sea to Yemen. By the late 15th century, the Arabian region had come under the Ottoman influence. And quite naturally, coffee culture spread to Istanbul by the early 16th century. The Ottoman-Bosnian chronicler, İbrahim Peçevi, reported the opening of the first formal coffeehouse in Constantinople:
Until the year 1554, in the High, God-Guarded city of Constantinople, as well as in Ottoman lands generally, coffee and coffeehouses did not exist. About that year, a fellow called Hâkem from Aleppo and a wag called Şems from Damascus, came to the city: they each opened a large shop in the district called Tahtakale, and began to purvey coffee.
In sense, the modern coffeeshops - Starbucks and the Cafe Coffee Days, all owe it to the Turks! The Turks might as well demand some royalties...
And in 1538, when the Ottoman Turks annexed Yemen, they gained a monopoly over coffee trade. They parboiled coffee beans and exported them from a Yemeni Red Sea-port town called Mocha,. And thus came about the term "mocha."
Today, coffee is very much a part of Turkish everyday life and traditions. It is also a part of traditional Turkish wedding customs. Before the wedding, when the groom and his parents visit the girl's family, the bride must prepare and serve them coffee. And the fun part - for the groom's coffee, the bride use salt instead of sugar to gauge his character. If he drinks his coffee without any sign of displeasure, the bride assumes the groom is good-tempered and patient.
And the Turks use coffee for fortune-telling or kahve falı - the sediment left after drinking is turned over onto a saucer. They believe that the patterns of coffee grounds can predict your fortune!
But who cares about the future, when you have excellent kahvesi this very moment. And I fully agree with this old Turkish proverb that says “Coffee should be black as hell, strong as death, and sweet as love”.

Saturday, August 1, 2015

Mysterious Ancient Habitations Of Çavuşin...

As we headed towards Kayseri Airport, we briefly stopped by at Çavuşin village, which is on the road between Uçhisar and Avanos.


Çavuşin is a small village which houses rock cut churches and homes from the Byzantine era. It also houses underground habitations that date back to the pre-historic era, some of which were later occupied by the Christian settlers.


Çavuşin village...



Quiet and a bit sleepy, Çavuşin is how it should be, but some ugly modern developments have taken over the village in the recent years...







There are 38 known underground cities in the Cappadocia area, the famous ones being Kaymakli and Derinkuyu. Other smaller ones dot the landscape around the region. Many people there are are more than the 38 known cities...


As we head deeper, we are told that there are lots of myths surrounding these cities. There are some who firmly believe that these habitations date back to the time of the Old Testament and Noah. They also believe that the locals took refuge here during the time of the great flood...

This region, especially Turkey, has rich pickings for Biblical treasure hunters - there has been a lot of speculation that the Noah's Ark is somewhere in this region - modern Anatolia or around the Mount Ararat, that we had seen our flight to Paris, last month. In my view one cannot discount the speculation that these structures have a Bibilical connection...


Ancient drainage system...


A granary...



A winery...



Grain storage area...





The soot on the walls tells us this was a cooking area...



A porthole for ventilation...



A circular stone door...


It is indeed debatable to the point of speculation whether there is a Biblical connection to this place, a connection to the Ark, but one thing is for sure, the ingenuity of humans is indeed appreciable - they have historically made the best out of what nature had to offer! 

Landscapes Around Uçhisar...

From Guvercinlik Vadisi, we moved around the periphery of the Uçhisar town stopping by places with interesting landscapes. 


The Uçhisar Castle, also known as the Landlord's Castle...


The exterior appearance of the  Uçhisar Castle is plain ugly and lacks the grandeur that one would associate with a castle. It looks like a mass of rocks that were haphazardly carved in haste. But the construction style follows the traditions of Cappadocia of building homes and buildings out of the natural rock...


While little is documented about the Uçhisar Castle, it is believed to have been built during the Byzantine era, and assumed importance because of its location making it relatively impenetrable and giving a good view of the Silk Route. The Ottomans too used the castle owing to its strategic location...


A photo with a camel? Or one with the romantic couple?



Stopping by for lunch at this breathtaking location...




As we wait for our lunch to come, it seems as though Cappadocia has been taken right out of the pages of a fairy tale...


Or probably the Arabian Nights!


Our mezze platter - hummus, babaghanoush,  peppers, yogurt...


Fresh cheese and a salsa dip...


And the lovely aromatic bread makes me feel I am in paradise!


Kem Göz At Guvercinlik Vadisi...

A freakish fall after the balloon ride left me sore and incapable of pursuing such hectic sightseeing for the next few days. So a whirlwind tour of the remaining sights in Cappadocia followed.
Our first stop was the Guvercinlik Vadisi or the Pigeon Valley located on the the periphery of Uçhisar town and overlooking the Göreme Tarihi Milli Parkı or the Göreme National Park...


The farmers and monks of Cappadocia had a special affinity for pigeons, in the Byzantine era and the years that followed. They built pigeon houses or dovecuts in the rockface...


 Farmers used these cave pigeon houses to collect the droppings of pigeons which made for an excellent natural fertilizer for the orchards and vineyards...


In Mumbai, pigeons are considered as "flying rats" spreading pestilence...


But it's a different story here...


Guvercinlik Vadisi has hiking trails. Would have loved to hike here but I couldn't because of the freakish injury...


Warding off the evil with Kem Göz or evil eyes...


Kem Göz are talismans that are believed to ward off curses cast by a malevolent glare, which is usually given to a person when they are unaware. Many cultures believe that receiving the evil eye will cause misfortune or injury.

The idea of such talismans exists among different cultures, in the Mediterranean, Middle East and Central Asia. This idea also finds a mention in the Old Testament. These talismans are now used as decorations in the region and have become a popular souvenir for tourists.


The landscape here is breathtaking and we will carry back these memories when we return from Cappadocia later today...


Panoramas Of Cappadocia... Part II

And we continue on our balloon ride around the Cappadocia area, enjoying the pleasing and heartwarming vistas of dawn with the fairy chimneys down below us.



Trailers move into position - the balloons would land on them...


Its quite scary when the balloons passed just a few feet over summits of the hills around, but we were assured that we were safe...


The magical, golden rays of dawn...


A flotilla of balloons...


It is indeed breathtaking...



Some balloons are positioning to land...



The armada...



Stark and stunning, these words describe the Cappadocian landscape...



Sights we will never forget...








We were speechless and spellbound...






The rays look as though sun is bestowing us on earth with blessings... and indeed that is true!






The balloons would often touch each other gently...




There is the life sustaining sun...


And soon we will descend...

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