Saturday, October 17, 2015

The Line That Divides A Nation - The Third Tunnel...

After peeking into the despair of Kijong-dong village on the North Korean side of the DMZ, we headed to the Third Tunnel, the scene of animosity that the north has for the south. We pass through a thickly wooded forest. We were told that this area is heavily mined - landmines left behind by the Northern side after their retreat in 1953. Civilians are not permitted to enter these jungles, not only because this a high security area, but also because one never knows what lies beneath the ground.
Since its demarcation in 1953, the DMZ has been witness to numerous incidents and incursions by the North Koreans, although they never acknowledge direct responsibility for any of these incidents. Now that would be a lot like the "mosquito bites" India gets from Pakistan, but Pakistan blames "non state actors".


One of the ways the North Koreans tried to intrude in was through tunnels dug under the DMZ right into South Korean territory. Till now, four such tunnels crossing the DMZ, that had been dug by North Korea, have been discovered. 
When confronted with the evidence, North Korea claimed that the tunnels were for coal mining. That of course is a lie as no coal has ever, ever been found in these tunnels. These tunnel walls had been painted black to give the appearance of coal.
It is believed that these tunnels were to be used as a military invasion route. Each shaft was large enough to permit the passage of nearly 2000 soldiers in one hour, though the tunnels are not wide enough for vehicles. 
Today, we were visiting one such tunnel, the Third Infiltration Tunnel. 
This incomplete tunnel was discovered in October 1978, after the South Korean side detected an underground explosion, apparently caused by the North Koreans, who had progressed 435 metres into South Korean territory beyond the DMZ. It took four months to locate the tunnel precisely and dig an intercept tunnel.


As we reached the site of the third tunnel, we were led into a theatre for an orientation on the history of the Korean conflict and more particularly of the four tunnels. We were repeatedly told that photography isn't permitted inside the tunnel!


An audio-visual presentation on the Korean conflict...



Innocent Koreans were adversely impacted by the war...


Demarcation of the DMZ...



The Communist forces from North Korea, assisted by China and the Soviet Union, captured most of South Korea, forcing the a retreat of the South Korean forces to Busan...


During the war, Seoul changed hands four times...


It was the Battle of Incheon that turned the tide in favour of the United Nations Command...



Flowers of the DMZ...



The third tunnel is incomplete. It is 1,635 metres long, 1.95 metres high and 2.1 metres wide. It runs through bedrock at a depth of about 80 metres below ground level. The tunnel is described as a "tunnel of aggression" by the South Koreans, who considered it an overt act of aggression from the North.
The tunnel was quite cold and damp. We could imagine the plight of the North Korean workers who would have slaved to make a tunnel that stands for nothing productive. We keep hearing of the tortures inflicted by the North Korean regime on their people, stories of starvation and forced labour. The North Koreans expect aid from the world but put their scarce resources to such a waste. If you thought such wasteful expenses are over, hold your breath! They are developing missiles and nuclear weapons, and exporting this technology to rogue states. This is really appalling! 


A spot for photographs...


A photo here is a must!


This sculpture signifies reunification...



As sun sets over a divided land, we return back with a number of questions. What drives the irrationality of the North Korean regime? What will it be like if reunification happens, will Korea remain an industrial powerhouse like the way South Korea is? We decide we cannot crystal-gaze, as we head back to Seoul!

The Line That Divides A Nation - A Peek Into Despair...

On the next leg of our trip to the DMZ, we headed from Dorasan Station to the Dora Observatory, to get a glimpse into North Korea.



A stone marker commemorating the valor of Korean soldiers...


"End of Separation, Beginning of Unification"


The Dora Observatory...


Zooming in into Kijong-dong village across the DMZ...
Kijong-dong is one of the two villages that are permitted within in the 4 kilometer-wide DMZ, the other is on the southern side of the divide - Daeseong-dong...
 The North Koreans maintain the official position that Kijong-dong has a 200-family collective farm, besides other facilities such as schools and a hospital. However, observers from the south say that it is a ghost town. The village which was built in the 1950s is believed to be a part of a propaganda campaign to encourage South Koreans to defect to the northern side...


This village is the scene of what some have called the "flagpole war". In the 1980s, the South Koreans built a 98.4 metre tall flagpole with a 130 kilogram flag of South Korea in Daeseong-dong. The North Korean government responded by building a taller flagpole (160 metres high), known as the Panmunjeom flagpole, with a 270 kilogram flag of North Korea in the Kijong-dong village...


The difference between the two sides of the DMZ could not be more stark. While the southern side is lush green, the northern side is devoid of vegetation...


Peering into the north...


Going by the level of activity across the DMZ, it seemed to be a place under a lot of despair...



The Line That Divides A Nation - The Train To Nowhere...

In our last one month in Korea, we have been welcomed by the warmth of the people, ordinary, energetic Koreans who have an uncanny zest for life.
But just a few miles north of Seoul lies a line that has scarred this nation. The eerie silence here on the Demilitarised Zone or the DMZ heightens the senses of any visitor - foreigners and Koreans alike, and makes them acutely conscious of the scars that the Cold War has left behind, a far cry from the energetic pace of Seoul.
From Imjingak, our next stop on our DMZ trail was the Dorasan Station.
Immediately after the surrender of Japanese in the Second World War, the Allied forces moved in to occupy the Korean peninsula. The Americans came in from the south, while the Russians came in from the north, effectively dividing the peninsula into two. By 1948, two separate governments had been set up, both claiming to be legitimate and neither side accepted the border as permanent. 
The conflict snowballed into an armed conflict when North Korea, supported by the Soviet Union and China invaded South Korea on June 25, 1950. The United Nations got into the act and dispatched forces to Korea. The fighting ended in July 1953, when an armistice agreement was signed, creating the DMZ formally dividing the peninsula in two halves. Technically, North Korea and South Korea are still at war as no peace treaty has been signed. 
The DMZ was established as a de facto border under the armistice agreement - a buffer zone between the two Koreas, running along the 38th parallel. The DMZ is about 250 kilometres long, approximately 4 kilometres wide. And, contrary to its name, the DMZ is the most heavily militarized border in the world.
The armistice divided not only the peninsula, but also divided people - families got split up across the DMZ with no means of communication and limited avenues to meet. Reunions of divided families do happen, but for a brief period of time. While South Korea follows a lottery system for selection of families, the North Koreans select divided families that have a history of being regime-loyalists.
But South Korea lives in the hope of, one day, reuniting with the belligerent North and in that hope, it has built infrastructure on its side of the DMZ, the Dorasan Station being one example. 



Dorasan Station is located on the Gyeongui Line, which once connected North and South Korea. The rail line and the station has now been restored...


This elderly Korean gentleman got very emotional as he touched the map of the Gyeongui Line...


The refurbished Dorasan Station...


It's a lovely afternoon with lovely colours of autumn in full splendor...



Interior of the station...


Commuter trains between Seoul and Dorasan operate, mainly catering to tourists, quite literally, these are the trains to nowhere...


Unification is the theme here. Freight trains between Dorasan Station and into Kaesong Industrial Region in North Korea, about 19 kilometres from here, taking materials and getting back finished goods. Kaesong was started as a collaborative venture between the two sides, allowing South Korean companies to set up manufacturing facilities in the North, employing local workforce. This was South Kore's attempt to help in the North's economic development...
However, Kaesong has been witness to arbitrary clampdowns by the North and as a result, the freight rail service doesn't operate anymore...


A plan of the station...


South Korea hopes that this station will one day become their gateway to Russia and Europe, connecting on the Eurasian and Siberian rail networks...


DMZ souvenirs are a big craze...


Dubya, George W. Bush visited Dorasan during his presidency...



As we move out of Dorasan Station, the colours of autumn are in full bloom, and probably the colours of re-unification will bloom here one day!

The Line That Divides A Nation - Wings Of Hope At Imjingak...

Today, we embarked on the journey that takes us to the line that divides a nation. We headed from Seoul to Imjingak and Paju to see the Demilitarised Zone or the DMZ, the zone that divides South Korea and North Korea.


The journey from downtown Seoul to Imjingak takes about an hour and a half, depending on traffic. When got to Imjingak, all buses to the DMZ were running full, so had to kill two hours. Luckily for us, a farmers festival was ongoing on the grounds here. And this gave us a good time to roam around...  


I would love to eat it all - grilled pork, Korean hot dog and lots, lots more!


Korean hot dogs aren't you think they would be - these are sausages dipped in a really thick batter and deep fried. Now that's too much of cholesterol...


Fresh ginseng on sale! Ginseng is a legendary Korean root that is used to revitalise the body and treat a variety of ailments in traditional medicine...


It's a bright day today!


Dropping by at Paju for a traditional Korean bibimbap! Our vegetarian bibimbap came with seaweed soup, kimchi, pickled radish, gochujang - the red pepper paste and fried tofu. I can't tell how tasty this simple meal was!


And we followed that with a bitter hot chocolate at the Godiva outlet!


This is how hot chocolate should be - bitter and slightly sweetened...



He ties her hair, while she chats away to glory! I found this sight very amusing!

When we reached Imjingak the second time around to board the bus to take us to the DMZ, the park was busling with people.



It is a tradition to fly kites here in the hope of reunification...


And also, to stick up these fans in the ground!


And we wait for the bus to take us to Dorasan Station...

Saturday, October 10, 2015

A Delightful Scandinavian Meal...

All these days, we had been thoroughly enjoying Korean cuisine, besides Indian food at home. But today, we had a real surprise, a gastronomical surprise, when we traveled to Gwangmyeong to visit the Ikea outlet, which incidentally happens to be the biggest Ikea in the world...



After a long 2 hour commute from Songdo, by the time we reached Gwangmyeong, we were famished. And to save time we headed straight to the Ikea restaurant...


The restaurant was teeming with people taking a break from their shopping to have a bite... 


Trolleys full of goodies were rolled out. Every moment in the queue is agonising when you're hungry...


After 20 minutes in the queue, we were ready to dig in - delectable Swedish meatballs...


Vegetable balls...


Grilled salmon - this was amazingly good....


Dessert...


And massive amounts of bitter, sugarless espresso that put me in such a trance that I just could no hear Neeti shout out to me "Let's head shopping now!"...

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