Sunday, June 5, 2016

Revelations Of Rich Pinoy History... Part I

Before I get on to work from tomorrow, I set out to explore Manila and its rich heritage. And it was a revelation that the Philippines had such a rich history, a proud history...
My first stop on the historical discovery of Philippines was at the Ayala Museum at Makati, which is touted to be Manila's Manhattan!
The museum houses ethnographic and archaeological exhibits on Filipino culture, art, and history, since its establishment in 1967 by the Ayala Foundation, which is run by a prominent business family of the Philippines - the Ayalas.


Now the Ayalas are of Spanish origin and the family settled in the Philippines in the 1800s, when the nation was under Spanish colonial rule. They invested quite a lot in infrastructure and urban development - in the late 19th century, the Ayalas constructed the Puente de Ayala (Ayala Bridge) over the Pasig River in Manila, they introduced the first tramcar service in the Philippines and they developed Makati as Manila's financial district in the 1950s. Makati has an interesting history - in 1851, Don José Bonifacio Roxas, a member of the Ayala family purchased the land here from the Jesuits, who had called this estate the "Hacienda de San Pedro de Macati" - it was sold for 52,800 pesos.
Till today, the land here is owned by the Ayalas, but is leased out on long term basis to developers. The Ayalas are responsible for providing infratsructure services here. Naturally, Makati, is a far cry from the chaos of Manila. The orderliness of Makati made it stand out a lot like a utopian development - just like Mumbai's fledgling Bandra Kurla Complex!


Our first stop in the Ayala Museum was the Diorama Experience - this section features sixty handcrafted dioramas highlighting major events and themes from prehistoric times to the recognition of Philippine independence by the United States in 1946.


The earliest evidence of human inhabitation comes from Cagayan valley in Luzon where prehistoric tools made from stones and bones were discovered...
It is estimated that these civilizations thrived nearly 250,000 years ago - there is a marked similarity between the artifacts discovered in the rest of South East Asia and here providing a clue to the ancient cultural links between the two areas...


The Palawan Tabon caves date back to nearly 52000 years back and this is where the first remains of homo sapiens were found...


The Palawan burial caves - evidence from the caves points to the ceremonial disposal of human remains and a belief in afterlife!


Traces of advancements made were found in Bicol, south eat of Luzon - the pottery wheel and advanced pottery techniques were used here in 5000 BC...


The Banaue rice terraces were carved by hand by the Ifugao people in north Luzon nearly 2000 years back. The terraces equal eight times the length of the Great Wall of China and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site!


Evidence of metal forging was found in southern Philippines that dates back to nearly 3200 BC...


Trade between the Philippines and China existed in those days. Chinese junks crisscrossed the South China Sea bringing ceramics, tea and silk, while taking back gold, wax, pearls, arecanuts and tortoise shells... 


Islam came to the Philippines in 1175 AD and by 1450, the Sultanate of Sulu in southern Philippines was established...


Christianity came to the Philippines with the expedition of the Spanish colonist, Ferdinand Magellan in 1521...



The Battle of Mactan - to defend the independence of his people, the chieftain Lapu-Lapu of Mactan island fought the Spanish colonialists and defeated them in 1521...


The Legazpi-Sikatuna Blood Compact - a peace treaty between Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Rajah Sikatuna of the island of Bohol helped the Spanish overcome the defeats and strengthened their positition in the archipelago which ultimately resulted in a fall of all the islands to the Spanish. I would say it wasn't a blood compact, it was treachery...


After the Spanish conquered Luzon, they engaged locals in manufacturing of cannons to defend the garrison at Manila...



The Spanish conquistador Juan de Salcedo allied with the locals to repel an attack on Manila by a Chinese pirate Limahong in 1575...


Evangelization of locals through medical aid cemented Spanish rule in the Philippines...


Along also came western education and books. The gospels were the first books published in the Philippines in the late 1500s...


The Aetas - an indigenous tribe of the Philippines...


Chinese pirate attacks and the murder of the Spanish governor-general of Manila by the Chinese led to a riot in which the Chinese were massacred...


The oldest university of South East Asia - the University of Santo Tomas was established in 1611...


Despite the evangelization of the Philippines, Sultan Kudarat fiercely resisted resisted the new religion in Mindanao, which to this date remains predominantly Muslim...


The Chinese got increasingly marginalised in society and were distrusted by the 1700s and were confined to ghettos called Parians...


Conflict with the clergy led to the assasination of Governor General Fernando Bustamante in 1719. For sure, religion and politics make for a deadly cocktail, even today...


 The Dagohoy Revolt, is considered as the longest rebellion in Philippine history. Led by Francisco Dagohoy, this rebellion took place in the island of Bohol from 1744 to 1829, lasting roughly 85 years...


Manila had developed as a major port and trade between Manila and Acapulco flourished. Silk, ivory, jewelry and spices were traded for silver from Mexico...


Now this was a revelation to me - I had not known the fact that the British (with an army from India) had invaded Manila in 1762 in retaliation for Spanish support to the French during the Seven Year War. The occupation lasted two years...


With the end of the British occupation of Manila, the Spanish stepped up the commercial exploitation of minerals in the Philippines and the Santa Ines mines were among the first to be exploited...


News from Europe reached the Philippines by ship. And then the Philippines got its first newspaper - Del Superior Govierno. It was first published in 1811 and was edited by the Spanish Governor General himself...


Damian Domingo established an art academy in 1811 that admitted students cutting across racial barriers and that was a big social move...


A Sunday mass scene from Santa Ana in the 1850s - the religious congregation was an important social event of the locals...


The wide street of Escolta, north of Pasig River, which had assumed commercial importance in the 1860s...


Saturday, June 4, 2016

Mabuhay Manila!

Finally landed at Ninoy Aquino International Airport this afternoon and I am looking forward to an exciting but hectic week of meetings in Manila.



My introduction to what's happening in the Philippines began on the flight itself, with a quick roundup of news from the country and the papers were full of news on the President-elect, Rodrigo "Rody" Duterte, True to his "shooting from the lip" style, he reportedly threatened the media "Don't f... with me!"


China's aggressive posture is big news in the local media... 


And so is climate change, which is threatening the Philippines...


Indian food seems to be popular in Manila... 


Mabuhay!

The Philippine Airlines experience was nothing great to talk about. The incoming flight from Incheon was full but was relatively quiet, given the higher proportion of Koreans on board. The Filipinos, like us Indians, love to talk! And in many ways, I think that is a big positive from a social standpoint...
The leg-space onboard was terrible, and the food was absolutely uninspiring - in many ways it reminded me of the unappetizing fare that Air Sahara used to serve back home in India. The cabin crew was quite unfriendly and thankfully as I discovered later, Filipinos are indeed quite friendly - perhaps Philippine Airlines is an exception!
Landing into Manila was a great experience. Not only were the vistas from Up In The Air great, but equally exciting was the Plane Spotting at the airport, especially with the lovely livery of Philippine Airlines all around.
The Terminal 2 building reminded me a lot of the old terminals in Mumbai. Immigration was quick and super-efficient and bags rolled in, in about 10 minutes - but the conveyor belts and the trolleys were all creaky! But all over, all I saw were happy faces - really happy faces. Perhaps this is the infectious charm of the Filipinos!


Exchanging currency was quite fast and efficient - I am really impressed by the promptness of the ordinary Filipino. The Philippine peso bank notes are indeed quite colourful - the PHP 20 banknote features Manuel Quezon a president from the 1930s after whom Quezon City in Metro Manila is named. And the PHP 500 banknote features the power couple - Corazon "Cory" Aquino and Benigno "Ninoy" Aquino, Jr...

Ninoy Aquino, after whom the airport is named, was a senator who had put up a severe opposition to the dictatorship of Ferdinand Marcos. He had been sentenced to death by a firing squad but ill health had forced Aquino to seek refuge in the United States in 1980. After he recovered, he rallied expat Filipinos against Marcos and ended his exile in 1983. He flew in, into this airport on August 21, 1983 and just as he was being escorted off the China Airlines plane, he was shot in the head and died instantly on the tarmac. Despite convictions of the shooters, no one has actually figured out who ordered Ninoy Aquino's killing, and that too despite his wife, Cory Aquino, and son, Benigno Aquino III, both being presidents for a term each. This had given rise to conspiracy theories and speculations, which live to this day...



Watching the sun set over Manila!


The thing that delighted me most about Manila was that everyone spoke English here, impeccable English! There was no need for me to reach out for my phone and open the Google Translate app. Being understood and being able to understand is such a luxury - that's something I realised after living in Korea for the last 10 months.
The ride to the hotel was smooth and we passed by crowded and chaotic roads which is a lot like India! But there was a definite pulse to life as I observed it, despite being poor, people appeared happy which is a lot like in India.
The Filipinos seem to be productively "living" their lives, that's why the say Mabuhay or "live" as a greeting!


Plane Spotting At MNL

Landing at Manila under the bright blue skies of the tropics was an excellent opportunity to do some bird-watching...



Slowing down after landing I spot a China Airlines Boeing 747-400 parked at Terminal 1 of Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA)...


A Federal Express Boeing 757 and an Air Hong Kong Airbus A300 at the cargo bay...



An impressive lineup of Philippine Airlines's fleet at Terminal 1 of NAIA...



Man... I love this livery...





Whoever designed this livery deserves an award!



That's a Cathay Pacific Airbus A350 in the distance at Terminal 3...


A Cebu Pacific Airbus A320 taxis...


Parking next to a Philippine Airlines Airbus A330 sporting a "75" sticker...


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