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Showing posts sorted by relevance for query balestier. Sort by date Show all posts

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

At Home In Balestier... Part I

When we were planning this trip to Singapore, it was merely by luck that I chanced upon this hotel in Balestier. 
I did not want to stay in Little India, as most people from India do, I wanted to experience the local way of life, local food and more importantly, I wanted a peaceful place, yet accessible from the airport and Downtown...
Hotels in Downtown were way, way beyond my reach in terms of budget.
It was on Expedia and couple of other travel sites that I figured out that Balestier suited me perfectly in terms of accessibility and budget. My old friend Kapil validated my decision. Even Neeti loved the location...


But scratching beneath the liveliness of the area, the hustle and bustle, the veneer of modernity that the glitzy malls, the hotels and high-rise condos of Balestier exude, there is a massive amount of history that the place has, an untold story, which Singapore is zealously preserving all over the nation. 



I found this aspect of Singapore very appreciable - there is a conscious effort to preserve the old, yet modernise. There is a big focus of putting people, locals, in touch with the heritage of the area, lest they forget. 
This was evident in Balestier. The story behind Balestier's modernity was documented on the heritage trails that the National Heritage Board has created and so prominently displayed, that it became a virtual treat for a history buff like me...



Balestier Road was named after an American, Joseph Balestier, who an agriculturist, trader and shipping agent. (Balestier was married to Maria Revere, the daughter of Paul Revere, a hero of the American war of independence). He was also the United States's first consul to the region, from 1849 to 1852. This was the time when American ships were given equal trading rights to trade in the region alongwith the East India Company. 
In Singapore, Balestier built a large house on a 1,000 acre sugar-cane and cotton plantation, with a sugar mill and rum distillery. This area is now known as Balestier Road.
Balestier was a keen horticulturist and was among the founders of the Singapore Agricultural & Horticultural Society. He grew fruit and exotic and rare plants in his estate here. Those days, this area was home to tigers and Balestier's labour - Indian and Chinese often had to fight off these wild cats in the plantation 
In 1848, Balestier had to sell off his estate here to pay off his debts as British import duties on Singaporean sugar and rum made exports unviable...
The estate was acquired by the local authorities and handed over to Chinese farmers. A part of Belestier was converted into a burial ground for the destitute and another was converted into a leper colony - that site today is where the Tock Seng Hospital is located...
As migrants came into Singapore, settlers started populating Balestier. Villages sprung around the area. The Chinese caled it Wu-Hap Thong or Taro Pond. People set up cottage industries here - these can be seen, today, as shophouses that line up along Balestier Road.

In the early 1900s, wealthy Singaporeans moved out of the Downtown, Kampong Glam and Chinatown areas to Balestier for a an idyllic lifestyle here. The rich and the famous who inhabited this area were the Aljunieds (an Arab trading family that claims to have descended from the Prophet Mohamed), the Sultan of Sulu (Sulu is in modern Philippines), the Sultan of Siak (Sumatra, Indonesia), a wealthy Chinese merchant Boey Chuan Poh and many others...




I found the Zhongshan Park, which is in between Ah Hood Road and Balestier Road an oasis of calm, tranquility and relaxation. The park is centered around two magnificent banyan trees, with walkways and ponds giving the park a relaxing feel. No wonder, people come here to read a book or two, walk their pets or just sit and and enjoy the sounds of silence!




A view of the Maha Sasana Ramsi Burmese Buddhist Temple from Zhongshan Park...



Illumination of Zhongshan Park at night...



Zhongshan Park is abutted by two hotels, the Days-Inn and the Ramada, besides the Zhongshan mall on either side. Across the road is the Ibis Hotel...




One can't resist the tranquility of Zhongshan Park...

This is a historic area. Balestier was home to Dr. Sun Yat Sen, who founded the Repblic of China in 1911. More on that in the next edition of At Home In Balestier...!

At Home In Balestier... Part II


Over the last few days that we stayed at Balestier, we got an interesting insight into how Singapore evolved as a nation. The Balestier area was an area where tigers roamed free. Free trade brought in an American, Joseph Balestier, who cultivated the place. Over time, Balestier developed with Chinese working class immigrants moving in, and then, the rich and the famous...
One of the residents of Balestier was Dr. Sun Yet Sen, the founder of the Republic of China. Dr. Sen was a frequent visitor to Singapore and South East Asia in the early 1900s. During his stay in Singapore, he was offered a villa, known as Wan Qing Yuan (Serene Sunset Garden). Today it is called the Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall.
Located right across Zhongshan Park on the Ah Hood Road, the villa is stately and elegant - an important landmark on the Balestier heritage trail...



Dr. Sn was a medical doctor turned revolutionary. He was the first president and is considered to be the founding father of the Republic of China, respectfully called "Father of the Nation" in Taiwan, Republic of China (ROC). Mainland China or the People's Republic of China reveres him as the "forerunner of democratic revolution". 
He played an instrumental role in the overthrow of the Qing dynasty during the years leading up to the Double Ten Revolution and was appointed as the Provisional President of the new republic, when it was founded in 1912. He later co-founded the Kuomintang (KMT) party, serving as its first leader. Sun was a uniting figure in post-Imperial China.
In 1905, Sun along with revolutionary Chinese students studying in Tokyo, Japan formed a group Tongmenghui (United League), which sponsored uprisings in China. He came to the region actively seeking funds for the Tongmenghui.
As you go on the heritage trail and walk across the the Zhongshan Park, the pathways are tiled with a timeline of Dr. Sun Yat Sen's tryst with Singapore - this is quite an innovative way of reminding people of their history.











A few days back, on August 15, 2014, I tried to visit the Memorial Hall, but it was closed. I could not help but appreciate the villa's stately elegance that last lasted over a century. The two-storied villa is steeped in Victorian grandeur.


The villa, then known as Bin Chan House, was built in the 1880s by a Chinese trader, Boey Chuan Poh for his mistress - indeed Balestier was then the playground for the rich and the famous...
The villa was bought by a rubber magnate, Teo Eng Hock in 1905 and renamed Wan Qing Yuan. Hock had bought the villa for his ageing mother. When Dr. Sen visited Singapore, he offered the villa as a base for the activities of the Tongmenghui. 
After the overthrow of the Qing Dynasty in China, the villa became the local headquarters of the KMT Party.
The villa changed hands and fell into Japanese hands during the Second World War. The Japanese used the villa as their communication centre and as an office of the Kempeitai or the dreaded military police.
The villa was dedicated as a national monument in 1994 and was reopened in 2011 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the 1911 Revolution in China.



The Memorial Hall is scheduled to feature exhibits of Madam Soong Ching-ling, Dr. Sen's spouse...


A statue of Dr. Sen...


Verdant lawns of the Wan Qing Yuan...



A photograph of Teo Eng Hock's family...


Chinese calligraphy of the words "Bo Ai" or Universal Love which was presented by Dr. Sen to the Hock family...


Madam Soong's paper passport on display...


A background of Madam Soong...



A model of the villa and Dr. Sen's car...



Madam Soong's rather pretty dress...



A story of love blossoming between Dr. Sen and Madam Soong...


Marriage certificate of Dr. Sen and Madam Soong...


Model of the train that Madam Soong used to travel to the USSR in 1927...


The library...









A short history of Balestier Road on display in the Memorial Hall...



Caricatures from the newspapers of the early 1900s...





Currency of liberated China...





Dr. Sen addressing followers in a marketplace...



Chairman Mao's tribute to Dr. Sen...



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