As we complete our round of the DMZ area, we headed from the JSA to Imjingak Park, passing by the location where the infamous murder of Captain Bonifas took place.
We also passed by the "Bridge of No Return" that crosses the MDL. The bridge was used for prisoner exchanges at the end of the Korean War in 1953. The prisoners could either remain in the country of their captivity or cross the bridge to return to their homeland. However, once the prisoners chose to cross the bridge, they would never be allowed to return, even if they later changed their minds - this gave the bridge its name.
On the way to Imjingak Park, we got a glimpse of Daeseong-dong (Tae Sung Dong), a unique South Korean village, the only civilian habitation within the DMZ. Residents of village have some unique benefits and restrictions. They are exempt from conscription and taxes. Residents are also leased large plots of land by the government for agriculture.
However, residents of Daeseong-dong are subject to some severe limitations. Visitors invited to the Daeseong-dong must apply for a military escort two weeks in advance. There is an 11 PM curfew followed by a headcount - all this because in the past, North Korean soldiers have crossed the border and kidnapped citizens.
Outsiders are not allowed to relocate to Daeseong-dong. To maintain residency rights, residents of Daeseong-dong have to spend at least 240 days in the village. If they don't meet that requirement, they must explain why they are unable to do so. Most unmarried youth are forced to look outside the village for their spouses.
As we approached Imjingak, I shuddered thinking about families divided by the DMZ. A Korean friend told me she recalls her grandmother used to cry thinking about her siblings on the other side of the frontier - she had no clue about their fate - whether they were alive or not. Communication across the DMZ is strictly prohibited. That's why a lot of separated Koreans often pray "Let’s meet again in the afterlife".
Recently, a reunion of broken families was organised in a North Korean resort. A particularly poignant story emerged from this reunion. Soon-gyu Lee and In-se Oh were separated six months after they got married. Back then, Lee was pregnant when Oh left, planning to return in 10 days. Lee wished Oh a safe trip, not knowing this would be their last conversation for for decades. The DMZ was demarcated and Oh was trapped on the other side. And they finally met about 10 days back (probably their last meeting), and this was the first time Oh met his son.
The local press reported that Oh told Lee to sit closer to him during the shortlived reunion. Lee gifted Oh a wristwatch, a gift she always wanted to give him. Lee mentioned she always saw Oh in her dreams.
There would be so many painful stories like the one of Oh and Lee all over this land that could make any person cry. But that generation is dying. The young South Koreans would have little affinity for what lies beyond the DMZ. Indeed, time changes everything....
At Imjingak, the Freedom Bridge was fenced off and separated by barbed wire with prayers for peace and notes left for family members on the other side stuck to the fence...
This train is a relic of the war...
The train was heavily damaged during the war...
The train is rusting away, just like the way the ties across the DMZ have rusted with time...
Imjingak is particularly beautiful. This the only place where locals can get this close to North Korea...
An underground bombing shelter...
Perhaps some day, better sense will prevail in the North...
Comforting a pained lady...
Till the day reunification happens, there will be tears here, there will be prayers said...
...and there will be some smiles of hope!
1 comment:
Great article :)
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